Tailoring AppGown and anarkali measurement chart: 12 measurements for a perfect fit
A gown or an anarkali is really two garments joined at one line. The fitted bodice has to sit exactly on the body. The skirt has to fall from the right place and clear the floor by the right amount. If that join is half an inch off, or the length was taken without her heels, no amount of embroidery will save it.
This chart lists the 12 measurements a boutique needs for a floor-length gown or anarkali, how to take each one, standard sizes, how much flare and fabric to plan for, and what to check at the trial.
Before you start
- Ask for the innerwear and the heels. Take the bust with the bra she will wear, and the length with the heels she will wear. If she has not bought them yet, write down the heel height you assumed.
- Decide the style first. A fitted gown, a princess cut and a full anarkali all use the same numbers, but they do not all rely on the same ones.
- Standing straight, arms relaxed, breathing normally.
- Snug, not tight. One finger should slide under the tape.
- Write the unit on the card, inches or centimetres.
Gown and anarkali measurements
The numbers match the diagram at the top. Open the diagram to print.
| # | Measurement | How to take it |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Full length | From the highest point of the shoulder, next to the neck, over the bust and down to the floor, in the heels she will wear. |
| 2 | Shoulder | Across the back, from one shoulder tip to the other. |
| 3 | Chest | Around the fullest part of the bust, tape level at the back. |
| 4 | Waist | Around the natural waist, or the place the seam will sit if it is higher. |
| 5 | Waist length | From the highest shoulder point, over the bust, down to the waist seam. This places the join. |
| 6 | Hip | Around the fullest part of the hip, usually 7 to 9 inches below the waist. |
| 7 | Front neck depth | From the base of the neck at the shoulder line down to where the neckline should sit. |
| 8 | Hem flare (ghera) | The full width around the hem. A design choice, not a body measurement. Write the number you agree on. |
| 9 | Neck width | Across the shoulder line, how wide the neckline should open. |
| 10 | Back neck depth | From the base of the neck at the back down to where the back neckline should sit. |
| 11 | Back waist length | From the base of the neck at the back down to the waist seam. |
| 12 | Zip length | From the back neckline to below the hip, far enough for her to step in or lift it over her shoulders. |
For sleeves, take armhole, sleeve length, sleeve round and sleeve opening, the same way as for a blouse. For a princess cut or a fitted bodice, also take apex length (shoulder point to bust point) and apex to apex.
Which measurements matter for each style
- Full anarkali: waist length first, then chest and shoulder. The skirt starts at the seam, so a waist length that is an inch out moves the whole look. Hip hardly matters.
- A-line gown: shoulder and chest. The flare clears the hip on its own.
- Fitted or mermaid gown: hip, waist and the distance between them. Take a thigh and a knee round too, and mark where the flare begins.
- Princess cut: apex length and apex to apex, since the seams pass over the bust point.
- Off-shoulder or strapless: take the top edge round, above the bust, and test it at the trial with her arms raised.
Standard sizes
Use this table to check a number that looks wrong, or for ready stock. Brand charts differ by an inch or more, so it does not replace measuring.
| Size | Chest (inches) | Waist | Hip | Shoulder |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| XS (32) | 32 | 26 | 35 | 13.5 |
| S (34) | 34 | 28 | 37 | 14 |
| M (36) | 36 | 30 | 39 | 14.5 |
| L (38) | 38 | 32 | 41 | 15 |
| XL (40) | 40 | 34 | 43 | 15.5 |
| XXL (42) | 42 | 36 | 45 | 16 |
| 3XL (44) | 44 | 38 | 47 | 16.5 |
These are typical figures from several Indian charts, not a formal standard. The usual full length for a floor-length gown is 54 to 60 inches, depending on her height and heels.
How much ease to add
| Style | Chest | Waist | Hip |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fitted gown or mermaid | 1 to 1.5 inches | 1 inch | 1.5 to 2 inches |
| Regular bodice | 1.5 to 2 inches | 1 to 1.5 inches | From the flare |
| Heavy work or thick lining | Add 0.5 inch | Add 0.5 inch | Add 0.5 inch |
Sequins, zari and aari work stiffen the fabric and remove its give. A size that was fine in plain georgette can feel tight once it is worked.
Flare and fabric guide
Agree on the flare before you buy the cloth. It decides the fabric, the weight and how the dress moves.
| Look | Hem flare | Fabric (about 44 inches wide, medium size) |
|---|---|---|
| A-line, gentle flare | 2 to 3 metres | 4 to 4.5 metres |
| Regular anarkali | 3 to 5 metres | 5 to 6 metres |
| Full anarkali or kalidar | 5 to 8 metres | 6 to 9 metres |
| Very full bridal or flared gown | 8 metres or more | 9 metres or more, plus a can-can |
Lining uses about the same again, unless you line only the bodice. Georgette and net also need a lining layer, and a heavy border adds to the fabric you need because it has to be joined along the hem. These are rough figures. Lay the fabric out before you promise anything.
At the trial: what to check
| Problem | Measurement to check |
|---|---|
| Waist seam sits too high or low | Waist length. Unpick and move it. Do not try to hide it. |
| Bodice gapes at the neck | Shoulder too wide, or the neck too deep or wide. |
| Pulls across the bust | Chest ease, apex position or the dart. |
| Armhole bites when she lifts her arms | Armhole too small or cut too low. |
| Hem drags at the front and is short at the back | Lengths taken on one side only. Level it on her, in her heels. |
| Skirt falls flat | Flare, lining or missing can-can. |
| She cannot get it over her shoulders | Zip too short, or waist seam too tight to pass the shoulders. |
Notes to write next to the numbers
- Style: anarkali, A-line, princess cut, mermaid, kalidar.
- Neck and back design, with a sketch or a photo.
- Sleeves: sleeveless, cap, elbow, three-quarter, full, or sheer with a lining.
- Lining and can-can: where they go and which fabric.
- Work: type of embroidery, where it goes and who is doing it.
- Closure: back zip, side zip or hooks with a dori.
- Heel height, and the event date.
A blank card you can copy
| Measurement | Inches | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Full length | Heel height: | |
| Shoulder | ||
| Chest | ||
| Waist | ||
| Waist length | ||
| Hip | ||
| Front neck depth | ||
| Hem flare | ||
| Neck width | ||
| Back neck depth | ||
| Back waist length | ||
| Zip length | ||
| Armhole | ||
| Sleeve length | ||
| Sleeve round | ||
| Sleeve opening |
Keep the design with the numbers
A gown order is more than its numbers. The neck design she showed you on her phone, the sleeve she changed her mind about and the embroidery karigar's dates all have to stay together until delivery.
In Tailoring App you set up a Gown or Anarkali piece once with the fields from this chart. Each measurement is saved against the customer with the date and up to three photos of the design. Write the design notes on the order, set the trial and delivery dates, and move the order through your own stages, such as cutting, stitching, embroidery and finishing. The karigar sees the job and the photos, not the customer's name, phone number or price. It is free for one person and 50 orders a month. See how it works for boutiques.
For the rest of a bridal order, see the lehenga choli measurement chart.